Can Best Organic and Irrigation Practices Really Save Water and Money?

The answer is a resounding YES!

Over the years I've been to many workshops and seminars that are centered around the belief that organic turf care can in the long run save water, cost less to maintain. Over the last two years we put these theories to the test. It wasn't that I did not believe what I heard but I needed to have something more tangible, measurable.

In summary, in 2015 during an irrigation system audit, we measured the flow of water (gallons per minute) from an irrigation system in a lawn we had been applying organic turf care practices over several years (e.g. core aeration, compost topdressing, mineral supplementation, carbon supplementation, premium organic fertilizer). Beginning in 2015, continuing with organic turf care, with the cooperation of the homeowners (they were very cooperative and flexible with our testing) we began using best irrigation practices with regard to water scheduling. We had a goal of keeping more water directed at the soil and less running off the lawn and into the street. That prevents over-watering and many other associated problems in the suburban lawn. The results? July 2016 the lawn was as healthy and green as it was in 2015 but  with 6,544 less gallons of water!

We now have proof of our own that when best organic turf care practices are combined with best irrigation practices, the results are beneficial for the homeowner and we can say the cost of ownership can become less over time.



Facts:

Picture below taken July 9, 2015
Average Temperature for zip code of neighborhood for July = 94*
Minimum Temperature for zip code of neighborhood for July = 73*
Precipitation as of July 9, 2015 for zip code of neighborhood = 0"*
*Information supplied by Weather Underground

Facts:

Picture below taken July 22, 2016
Average Temperature for zip code of neighborhood for July = 94*
Minimum Temperature for zip code of neighborhood for July = 75* 
Precipitation as of July 9, 2015 for zip code of neighborhood = .10"*
*Information supplied by Weather Underground

Sprinkler Systems Part 1

It's hot, it's dry and you need your irrigation system (a.k.a. sprinkler system) to work well for a healthy lawn this summer. A lawn that is fertilized and has an underground irrigation system SHOULD NOT look overly dry, overly stressed and have brown spots.

Underground irrigation systems have many components that can be out of adjustment or failing. There can  also be design problems from when the system was originally installed that cannot be noticed while the system is running (not by the typical homeowner) so a dry spot is only a symptom of a problem within the system.

Take a look at the pictures and video below (some pictures and video were taken with approval in customer lawns) to learn more about problems within an irrigation system that can affect effective and efficient watering.

Sprinkler Head Anatomy

Sprinkler head above is called a 4" popup head (commonly used in flowerbeds and smaller yards). A "rotor" type head has similar anatomy (rotor heads are used in larger areas such as large backyards)

DRY SPOTS surrounded by greener areas indicate problems with the distribution of water related to multiple possible causes within the irrigation system...

                        

...SUNKEN HEADS (heads that are too low in the ground...THE RESULT - water is being deflected by grass and not covering intended area and dry spots can occur due to a lack of water). Solution: Sunken Heads can be raised to properly distribute water to intended area.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                        

WRONG SIZED NOZZLES (e.g. a 10 foot nozzle installed on a head that is supposed to cover 12 feet which would need a 12 foot nozzle - 2 feet are not being covered). Solution: Properly sized nozzles can be installed so "head to head" coverage of water occurs. 

HIGH WATER PRESSURE (High water pressure causes water coming from head to mist - misting water usually never touches the ground so all of water from head is not taken to roots where it is needed) Note: In almost every irrigation system we have audited there is at least one zone that has high water pressure. 

How does high water pressure affect my watering of the lawn or flowerbeds?

On a 15-foot, half circle nozzle running at 50 PSI, compared to the optimal 30 PSI (pounds per square inch), it will flow over one-half of a gallon per minute more. Multiply that by a run time of 10 minutes and that one sprinkler flows five gallons more than it needs to each time the zone turns on. Since it is applying the water much less uniformly as well, most of that extra water is not doing what is intended. 

Note Misting of Water in Video below (click picture two times) 

Hissing Sounds like you hear in the video above also indicate high water pressure.

We checked PSI at one head in flowerbed above (see pictures below) 

Another Way to Look at High Water Pressure

A SOLUTION FOR HIGH WATER PRESSURE

How many sprinkler heads are in your lawn? You could save a lot of water and water more effectively.

2015 in Review

As the 2015 growing season is fast becoming history we at Golden Rule Sustainable Turf Service would like to express gratitude to our loyal customers for loaning  their lawns and trees to us to study and implement best practices, and to care for in a way that promotes health and sustainability. On this Thanksgiving day we would add all of our customer's names to a list of those we are thankful for. We look forward to next year's growing season and hope to have the opportunity to continue our research and applications in our customer's lawns. 

What we saw, what we learned, what we did.  

In our work we are seeing more and more (as we look into soil biology) the deficiencies in the soils beneath the suburban lawn. The typical suburban lawn and trees are trying to survive in predominately clay soils as can be seen in the picture below of a profile we took from a customer's lawn.

We follow the principle that dirt is DEAD, soil is ALIVE (we can't grow healthy trees, shrubs, and lawns in dirt). The starting point is to get a balance of sand, silt and clay but we're not finished if we have only these components in balance. There also needs to be microorganisms and organic matter (organic matter feeds microorganisms which feed the roots of all plants). Our work is to add to clay what is needed to make a soil that is ALIVE, a soil that feeds the grass, the trees, the plants (yes, biologically balanced soil is capable of feeding quite well our lawns, trees and plants). So what are the results?

Getting Rid of Volcano Mulch Mounds

Recently we removed mulch mounds (a.k.a. Volcano Mounds) around trees in our customer's lawns. Our goal is to provide a better environment for trees to grow in. A more natural environment. An environment that allows trees to breathe, keep their protective armor (bark) strong, and an environment with healthy soil that feeds healthy trees.

Pictures below of trees are shown with approval from our customers. 

THE PROBLEM?

  THE MULCH MOUND!

MULCH MOUNDS - THE FACTS

• BURIED BENEATH THE MOUND IS THE ROOT FLARE (NOT VISIBLE IN THE PICTURE ABOVE).
  

  THE ROOT FLARE IS THE PART OF THE TREE THAT BREATHES. MULCH MOUNDS INHIBIT OXYGEN SUPPLY.
• MULCH MOUNDS CAUSE STRESS IN TREES MAKING THEM MORE VULNERABLE TO DISEASE AND PEST INFESTATIONS.

• BECAUSE MULCH MOUNDS ARE LESS DENSE THAN CLAY SOILS ABOVE GROUND, SUPERFICIAL 
  ROOTS CALLED ADVENTITIOUS ROOTS GROW IN THE MOUND (ROOTS FOLLOW THE PATH OF LEAST RESISTANCE). 

• ADVENTITIOUS ROOTS CAN BECOME GIRDLING ROOTS THAT CAN STRANGLE A TREE. 

• MULCH MOUNDS HOLD MOISTURE AGAINST THE BARK OF THE TREE. THIS MOISTURE CAN ROT THE BARK, CAUSE IT TO SPLIT OPEN AND PROVIDE AN OPENING FOR DISEASE AND PESTS TO ENTER THE TREE. BARK IS THE PROTECTIVE COVERING FOR THE TREE. MULCH MOUNDS ARE GOOD FOR REMOVING THIS PROTECTIVE COVERING!

CERTIFIED ARBORISTS RECOMMEND MULCH MOUND REMOVAL

"Removing volcano mulch and soil piled against the trunk is critical to promoting tree health and decreasing the opportunity for insects, rodents, disease, and fungus to negatively impact the tree. The general recommendation is to put a 2-4 inch layer of mulch over as much of the root zone as possible/practical, but 1 inch of compost and 2 inches of mulch is a good practice as well. Amending the root zone soil is one of the most beneficial tree care practices."

Wes Kocher

ISA Certified Arborist

Tree Risk Assessment Qualified

WHAT'S UNDER THE MOUND THAT IS HARMFUL TO THE TREE

Above Ground Adventitious Roots. Notice the circling pattern of the small hairlike roots near the trunk. These roots will continue to wrap around the tree and grow larger. Notice one of these roots has already wrapped itself  around the trunk of the tree. This will become a girdling root over time and could be catastrophic to the tree. As long as the mulch mound remains the customer would never know that the girdling root is growing around the trunk of the tree and slowly shortening it's life. Once the mulch mound is removed we carefully remove adventitious roots and girdling roots. 

Notice indentation in the flare (at the base of the trunk) of the tree (looks like a horizontal line)  made by an Adventitious Root (root was removed). The adventitious root would have continued to press downward against the flare, putting the tree in further stress

Splitting bark where mulch mound held moisture against tree. Notice line where mulch mound was covering bark (note difference in color to distinguish where mulch mound ended). Once mulch mound is removed, bark can dry out and better protect the inside of the tree. 

Above ground level roots. Some roots growing above the base of the tree. Not a good situation!

A mess! What can be happening beneath the Mulch Mound Volcano. 

SAFE REMOVAL OF MULCH MOUNDS

Because of all the roots growing beneath the mound, mulch and dirt must be carefully removed. No shovels or trowels should be used which could hit roots and damage the tree. 

OUR TOOLS 

Diesel Powered Air Compressor

Air Spade (connected to Diesel Compressor). Blows directed force of air (1200 mph) into the mound and fractures the soil. Will not harm roots!

Click the following YouTube Video link that shows our air spade in action removing a mulch mound around a customer's tree:

 Air Spade in Action

THE RESULTS

Root Flare Exposed.
Tree can now breathe much better. Bark will remain dry and protect the tree. 

Soil Amendments are added to the tree ring followed by a THIN layer of  native mulch. No more mulch mounds! 

Turf Care Schedule

Below is a general schedule for our three levels of turf care services. 

Bronze Package (Fertilizer and Soil Amendments)*

• Early Spring: We will apply a soil amendment in preparation for regular season growth. This soil amendment provides over 100+ minerals, vitamins, natural plant hormones, natural plant stimulators, essential sugars/amino acids/carbon and protein plus billions of beneficial microorganisms. 

• Late Spring: Once the grasses have begun to green up a bit and have been mowed a couple of times they are ready to take up nitrogen and nutrients. We will apply our proven Organic Fertilizer to your lawn. 

• Early Summer: We continue to feed your soil and your lawn - another application of Organic Fertilizer.

• Mid-Summer: As the temperatures rise we continue to feed your soil and lawn with a proven Organic Fertilizer.

• Late Summer: Summer heat can stress a lawn, especially if rainfall is short. We will feed your lawn and soil to help it endure the summer stress. 

• Fall: We will prepare your soil for winter and even the following spring with a superior soil amendment. 

* - If you have chosen to have us control weeds in your lawn we will be monitoring and treating weeds throughout the year around the time each fertilizer application occurs. 

Silver Package (Fertilizer and Soil Amendments/Core Aeration)*

• Lawn Feedings will follow the same schedule above in the Bronze Package
• We will provide 1 Core Aeration service (loosens soil, reduces compaction, creates air space that encourages deeper root growth, less need for water, and less weed problems) in the early spring and inject the holes with soil building nutrients. 

* - If you have chosen to have us control weeds in your lawn we will be monitoring and treating weeds throughout the year around the time each fertilizer application occurs. 

Gold Package (Core Aeration/Top Dress Lawn with Compost/Fertilizer and Soil Amendments)*

• Lawn Feedings will follow the same schedule above in the Bronze Package

• We will provide 1 Core Aeration service (loosens soil, reduces compaction, creates air space that encourages deeper root growth, less need for water, and less weed problems) in the early spring and inject the holes with soil building nutrients. 

• In Early Spring, after your lawn has been aerated we will fill all the holes with a high quality proven compost, organic fertilizer, and then layer your entire lawn with compost. Compost enriched soil retains fertilizer better. Compost encourages healthy root systems which decreases runoff during watering. Compost brings life to dirt (dirt is dead) and makes a soil (soil is living) environment that creates, over time, a more self-sustaining lawn, not addicted to high nitrogen fertilizers. 

* - If you have chosen to have us control weeds in your lawn we will be monitoring and treating weeds throughout the year around the time each fertilizer application occurs. 

Our Vision for 2015

Healthy Trees

We have a vision for not only healthy and beautiful grass in our customer's lawns but also for beautiful and healthy trees growing in beautiful and healthy lawns. 

What do the two pictures below have in common?

                             

              

The picture on the left is a common sight in lawns- a mound of mulch piled high around a tree. The picture on the right is obviously a volcano. The shape of the volcano and the shape of the mulch mound are similar. Trees in suburban landscapes look like they are spewing out of mulch mounds. Hence the phrase "Volcano Mulching" is used to describe this technique amongst tree care specialists.

SO WHAT'S WRONG WITH VOLCANO MULCHING?

Classic Volcano Mulch Mound - over 1 foot high

The colossal mounds of mulch retain moisture around the tree trunk, encouraging the development of adventitious root growth and these roots can grow up and out of the mulch volcano (you will see tree leaves with little stems protruding through the mulch) as the tree draws moisture out of the mulch (from now on when you see these leaves and stems sticking up and out of the volcano mound you can think of them as red flags alerting you to remove the volcano). These roots are the first to die during a drought and can put your tree into serious stress, if not kill it over time.

The excessive retention of moisture (held in by the mulch) around the bark of the tree buried in the volcano mound weakens the tree (bark is not the part of the tree that is supposed to be constantly moist - it is the protective layer of the tree) and when it rots or weakens, the door is wide open for pests and diseases to enter the tree. 

WE CONTACTED A CERTIFIED ARBORIST TO VERIFY THAT MULCH VOLCANOES ARE DANGEROUS TO TREES...

"Removing volcano mulch and soil piled against the trunk is critical to promoting tree health and decreasing the opportunity for insects, rodents, disease, and fungus to negatively impact the tree. The general recommendation is to put a 2-4 inch layer of mulch over as much of the root zone as possible/practical, but 1 inch of compost and 2 inches of mulch is a good practice as well. Amending the root zone soil is one of the most beneficial tree care practices."

Wes Kocher

ISA Certified Arborist

Tree Risk Assessment Qualified

A PROPER HEIGHT OF MULCH 

A More Natural Look!

We removed a Mulch Volcano around this tree. The tree ring now looks more like a healthy forest floor than an erupting volcano. There are two layers - compost blend at ground level and native mulch on top. 

This is what the soil looked like that was inside the volcano (no it's not volcanic rock but it may look like it) - hard clods of clay.

Hard clay replaced with a layer of our compost soil blend for healthy roots (the brown spots in the lawn are from a deep root feeding of the tree - this is an optional service).

A 2 inch layer of native shredded mulch is installed on top of the compost. In time the mulch will break down and feed the tree.

CAUTION

If you are a "do it yourself kind of person"...

Don't head for your mulch volcanoes with shovel in hand and start digging away the mulch...

There are likely to be roots inside the volcano, above the surface of the ground that can be damaged with a shovel.

Above ground roots at the base of where the volcano was.

MULCH REMOVAL/TREE CARE SERVICES

We will use specialized tools to carefully and safely remove volcano mulch mounds. We will add our compost-based soil with amendments topped with a layer of native mulch. Tree root zone soil amendment as well as foliar applications of healthy food for the tree are other services we can provide to promote healthy growth of your tree(s). 

WATER LESS... 

...and still have a beautiful and even healthier lawn!

It may seem strange to hear that watering your lawn less could actually make it healthier, but it can. Each year we travel many miles across our customer's lawns, spending many hours in each one and we believe every lawn could get by with less water and be healthier. 

A FEW FACTS

• Over watering can drown roots. Roots need oxygen. When soils are filled with excessive water for too long, oxygen is diminished or depleted and grass becomes unhealthy. Without oxygen, the roots of the grass will suffocate and die, leaving the plant with a very shallow root system, a root system that is more susceptible to stress (e.g. from  hot, dry weather conditions). 

• Over watered lawns have more weeds. To compound the problem, the weeds that over watered lawns often have are the kinds that are more difficult to control and thus require more aggressive herbicide treatments. 

• Over watered lawns need more fertilizer. We use organic products and methods in our Turf Care Program. An organic lawn should not have to be fertilized as much as a lawn that has synthetic fertilizer applied. However, in an organic or synthetic lawn, over watering causes nutrients to wash away faster (sadly, often times these nutrients are carried down the street and into the drains with water that runs off the lawn that is being over watered). Our goal is to help customers apply the right amount of water to their lawns so less fertilizer is needed, less water can be used, and less electricity will be needed to operate the sprinkler system since it will not be in operation as much. 

HOW CAN WE ACCOMPLISH THIS?

Identify any problems with the underground irrigation system (aka sprinkler system). Problems with irrigation systems can not only cause a lawn to seem like it needs more water, but can be costly to the customer.

Common Problems in a sprinkler system...that is operating, that is it is putting out water, but putting it out inefficiently, leading the customer to think more water may be needed when it really is not needed. 

Sprinkler heads too low (over the years this happens as grass matures and mowers repeatedly move over the lawn pushing the head(s) below ground level)- water is being deflected by grass blades and coverage is not good which can cause brown spots in lawn as can be seen below.

Dry spot in lawn

Broken or damaged sprinkler head. Many customers don't know if there is a broken sprinkler head because many customers are asleep when their sprinkler system is operating. 

IRRIGATION EVALUATION SERVICE

We can evaluate irrigation systems for any mechanical or operational problems (e.g. sunken heads, broken heads, clogged heads, or any other problems that are present). 

Each zone is turned on while the customer is present (appointments are made when the customer can be present for the evaluation - approximate time to complete the evaluation is 30 minutes) so he/she can see the problem(s) (if there are any) and get an explanation by the licensed irrigator performing the evaluation. After the evaluation is completed, if there are any problems, a bid for repairs/adjustments will be provided to the customer. The evaluation service and the repair service are separate and the customer is not required to have any repairs or adjustments made once the evaluation has been completed. 

A frequent question we get from our customers is, "How much should I be watering my lawn?" 

We find out most customers are either:

Watering a little (3-5 minutes) each day

OR

Watering the same amount of time in each zone (e.g. 10 minutes per zone)

OR

Watering at the same frequency throughout the entire year

NONE OF THESE WATERING METHODS IS WHAT A LAWN NEEDS TO BE HEALTHY

IRRIGATION SCHEDULING SERVICE

Our licensed Irrigation Auditor can take measurements of water distribution in your lawn in each zone and create a yearly irrigation schedule to be entered in your controller (the electronic brain for your irrigation system usually mounted on the wall in your garage). The irrigation schedule is based on factors such as slope of the lawn, type of soil, and type of sprinkler head (e.g. spray versus rotor). The results are much better than using the longtime recommendation of "fifteen minutes, three times per week" which typically ends up wasting water and can be unhealthy for the your grass, your trees and your shrubs, plants and flowers. 

TCEQ License #21302

TURF CARE SERVICES

Please take a stroll through the lawn below (look at numbers and read descriptions below the picture) to see areas we can address with regard to building a healthy lawn that can better handle stress from either drought or heat.

1) Top-dressing with Compost

• Compost is often called "Black Gold" by experienced gardeners as it does so many good things for the soil. Good compost is loaded with microorganisms that prevent disease, cycle nutrients, and create soil structure. It is also full of carbon which is needed by earthworms and other soil life forms. Humus in compost helps increase the water holding capacity of all soils, hence reducing plant stress. The microorganisms in compost help release the nutrients in the organic fertilizer and trace minerals and make them available to plants without polluting the environment. Earthworms and microbes eat the compost and create good soil structure in the process allowing proper aeration which helps prevent diseases.

• We will top-dress your lawn once or twice in the year at a 1/4  inch level. It is recommended that your lawn be aerated (see number 4 below) prior to topdressing for better results. 

2) Weed Management

• You've seen it before. When fertilizer is applied, the grass greens up and grows up and so do the weeds. Weeds love nitrogen. Their roots are usually deeper than the roots of your turf and so they have plenty of water - they don't even need your sprinkler system (but if your over water your lawn it is double trouble). Mix some nitrogen with a good water supply and kaboom, an explosion of weeds. Weeds thrive in poor, compacted soils, like we have here in the Houston area. We are working to minimize weeds in our customer's lawns as we apply products that build good soil structure and as we help customer's water more effectively, in a way the prevents weed flare-ups.
• We are licensed by the state to treat weeds with EPA approved chemicals. 
• We will inspect and treat your lawn for weeds throughout the year. 

3) Lawn Fertilizer/Humates/Minerals

• We will apply organic lawn fertilizer products throughout the year that in addition to nitrogen will provide over 70 minerals, vitamins, natural plant sugars, amino acids, carbon and protein plus billions of beneficial microorganisms. 
• A new service this year - shrub/plant/flower feedings using mineral rich organic products. During the growing season we will feed the plants in your flowerbeds to promote health. Healthy plants resist all the prey (e.g. fungus, pests) that usually attack our flowerbeds in the hot summer months, leaving them looking attacked for the rest of the year. 

4) Core Aeration

• Technically speaking, aeration is the naturally occurring process of air exchange between the soil and its surrounding atmosphere. Practically speaking, aeration is the process of mechanically removing small plugs of thatch from the lawn to improve soil aeration. 

• Benefits from Core Aeration 
• Better air exchange between the soil and its surrounding environment 
• Improved nutrient absorption 
• More efficient water usage 
• Thicker turf 
• Enhanced thatch breakdown 
• Helps loosen compacted soil 
• Allows nutrients, water and air to more easily get to the root zone 
• Aeration promotes deeper root growth for a lawn that is lush, healthy and drought resistant 
• Customer's Part 
• Prior to Aeration, customer must flag (you could use plastic spoons or flags) each sprinkler head in the lawn to prevent damage. Golden Rule Lawn Service can flag the lawn for an additional fee.

2014 in Review

As we draw near the end of the 2014 growing season we feel blessed to have had many opportunities to grow and excel in our knowledge and application of quality lawn care practices. It is because of our customers that we have been able to advance as much as we have. From lawn leveling to compost top dressings to irrigation auditing to sick tree treatments it has been our customers who have allowed us to experiment with new methods, to complete good practices research projects, all the while working toward the goal of excellence in the services we offer. Without our customers none of this would have been possible. So we end the year by offering many thanks to you our loyal customers. We look forward to providing new services in 2015 that will provide more comprehensive lawn care with more excellence than we have offered in years past. 

When our turf care program (lawn fertilization and weed management) was in it's infancy we were working to try and develop a program for feeding lawns using organic fertilizers and soil amendments. It has taken several years of some success and some failure but in 2014 we had the most success ever with our program (we believe, by the grace of God). But we have not arrived (and we don't think we ever will) so we are not kicking back to rest for the coming year. No, we will always be researching and experimenting with new ways of caring for lawns with a goal of making them healthy and nice to look at. We like to use organic products and practices because, in addition to the same basic ingredient (nitrogen-the ingredient that makes grass green) in synthetic fertilizers, organic fertilizers and soil amendments have ingredients that help build good soil structure (all our customer's lawns began with poor soil structure- hard clay soil!) which supports a healthy and beautiful turf as can be seen in the pictures below of some of our customer's lawns. You can be assured the contractor who built your home was not concerned with the health of the soil in your landscape as his employees drug the hard clay leftover from the pad for your foundation around your lot to make a surface for installing the grass. So our approach is to work from the bottom up, or from the soil to the tips of the grass blades, not from the top down which does not address the problems where they are. It is our settled conviction that healthy soils are foundational for healthy turf, healthy trees, healthy shrubs, plants and flowers. We work to that end. Most any fertilizer can make a lawn green. It takes soil building to go beyond a green lawn to a green lawn that is less water dependent, less high-nitrogen dependent, and more self-sustaining. 

This lawn is healing from TruGreen treatments in 2013 that left it looking yellowish-orange - 100% organic now with a rich green color. With each fertilizer application we are also supplying beneficial nutrients to the soil to support and stimulate the life needed for a truly healthy lawn. 

The two lawns, above and below, have been in our program for multiple seasons and are the healthiest they have ever been. Even weeds are minimal throughout the growing season. Healthy lawns have less weed problems. 

The lawn above was aerated and top dressed with compost at the beginning of the season - these methods helped the lawn thrive well in the heat of the summer. Aeration loosens hard clay, allows more oxygen and water to get to where the roots are and encourages deeper root growth. The result - a beautiful lawn with a healthy soil. A lawn not addicted to water and high nitrogen fertilizer.

The above two separate lawns were aerated and leveled using a  high quality compost based Divot Mix (used on golf courses). They are cut low which creates a thick and tight turf. Both lawns are fed with an organic fertilizer and soil amendement.

Beautiful AND Healthy Lawns